The Hollin Hall Hotel has been reincarnated several times over the past few decades. The latest refurbishment comes from Clayton Hotels, although at the time of writing their website remains mysteriously plain.
The Ridge Restaurant, within the Hollin Hotel, is situated in the former orangery. The grand piano at the entrance is promising, but unfortunately Better Midler and friends accompany us rather too loudly from the ceiling speakers. After a couple of minor adjustments (Bette volume down, and scented plug-ins turned off) we're ready to begin. The service is a mix of a cheeky chappy who oversteps the line and a nervous but extremely well-intending waitress.
To start, a filo parcel with goats cheese and black pudding is generous but overcooked, with tough edges that are difficult to conquer. The shredded duck tart is a more elegant affair. The chicken Thai red curry is confusingly sticky- not an ounce of coconut milk in sight which leaves it feeling like a rather token effort. Braised Cheshire lamb is beautifully soft and pink, but the accompanying mash is lumpy and the red cabbage is flavourless and dry. The sticky toffee pudding is dense and dessicated, and the tarte tatin is sneaked onto the plate with creme fraiche rather than the the advertised clotted cream.
This is gastropub grub on paper, but unfortunately doesn't hit the mark. The sumptuous interior of The Ridge is in conflict with this menu, as well as with the garish piped music and copies of Marie Claire in the central table. It is a brave but confused venture.
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