The Canteen, Cheltenham Road, Stokes Croft Bristol, 09.03.10

The Canteen is a new addition to the eclectic mix of shops, massage parlours and pubs that comprises Stokes Croft. The building isn't exactly inspiring- Hamilton House is grey office block courtesy of the good-ole 1960s. The front steps used to be a haunt for the city's strong ale enthusiasts, but the transformation has been made by Coexist, a company that seeks to provide "spaces in which people can coexist with themselves, with each other, and the environment". As well as The Canteen, there are numerous spaces for meetings, classes and creative endeavours.

Now, Bristolians might have to put away their preconceptions about Stokes Croft. This place is becoming safer by the minute, but by no means any less interesting. The Canteen is filled with young professionals, a few dreadlock enthusiasts and the occasional set of parents with grown-up kid. There's live music most nights with the room being big enough to hide away at the sides or alternatively sit right in the hub of the feed.


On to the feed. A delightful bowl of thick and brooding mushroom soup arrives before the main event. It is a complimentary gesture and has a lovely all-inclusive feel to it. They want us to be fed properly. I close my eyes and imagine I'm in a Russian military camp. The appetiser is quickly whisked away, and replaced by a whole trout smothered in caper butter. I don't think the Russians had it this good. It is beautifully cooked- moist and tart, with a snappy salad on the side. Unfortunately, the seafood linguine is thoroughly average and is predictably barren of sea creatures. Dessert is a comforting ramekin of crumble with a rich vanilla-infused homemade custard. Nothing could be better on a dreary March evening.

The bar is well stocked with local brews and organic stuff, the pace is quick but the air informal. The Canteen already has a core group of followers by all appearances and with a smidge of Montpelier loyalty will no doubt go from strength to strength. Who could argue against it, after all, a three course meal just cost me eleven quid.