The Canteen, Cheltenham Road, Stokes Croft Bristol, 09.03.10

The Canteen is a new addition to the eclectic mix of shops, massage parlours and pubs that comprises Stokes Croft. The building isn't exactly inspiring- Hamilton House is grey office block courtesy of the good-ole 1960s. The front steps used to be a haunt for the city's strong ale enthusiasts, but the transformation has been made by Coexist, a company that seeks to provide "spaces in which people can coexist with themselves, with each other, and the environment". As well as The Canteen, there are numerous spaces for meetings, classes and creative endeavours.

Now, Bristolians might have to put away their preconceptions about Stokes Croft. This place is becoming safer by the minute, but by no means any less interesting. The Canteen is filled with young professionals, a few dreadlock enthusiasts and the occasional set of parents with grown-up kid. There's live music most nights with the room being big enough to hide away at the sides or alternatively sit right in the hub of the feed.


On to the feed. A delightful bowl of thick and brooding mushroom soup arrives before the main event. It is a complimentary gesture and has a lovely all-inclusive feel to it. They want us to be fed properly. I close my eyes and imagine I'm in a Russian military camp. The appetiser is quickly whisked away, and replaced by a whole trout smothered in caper butter. I don't think the Russians had it this good. It is beautifully cooked- moist and tart, with a snappy salad on the side. Unfortunately, the seafood linguine is thoroughly average and is predictably barren of sea creatures. Dessert is a comforting ramekin of crumble with a rich vanilla-infused homemade custard. Nothing could be better on a dreary March evening.

The bar is well stocked with local brews and organic stuff, the pace is quick but the air informal. The Canteen already has a core group of followers by all appearances and with a smidge of Montpelier loyalty will no doubt go from strength to strength. Who could argue against it, after all, a three course meal just cost me eleven quid.

The Ridge Restaurant, Hollin Hall Hotel, Kerridge, 04.03.10

The Hollin Hall Hotel has been reincarnated several times over the past few decades. The latest refurbishment comes from Clayton Hotels, although at the time of writing their website remains mysteriously plain.

The Ridge Restaurant, within the Hollin Hotel, is situated in the former orangery. The grand piano at the entrance is promising, but unfortunately Better Midler and friends accompany us rather too loudly from the ceiling speakers. After a couple of minor adjustments (Bette volume down, and scented plug-ins turned off) we're ready to begin. The service is a mix of a cheeky chappy who oversteps the line and a nervous but extremely well-intending waitress.

To start, a filo parcel with goats cheese and black pudding is generous but overcooked, with tough edges that are difficult to conquer. The shredded duck tart is a more elegant affair. The chicken Thai red curry is confusingly sticky- not an ounce of coconut milk in sight which leaves it feeling like a rather token effort. Braised Cheshire lamb is beautifully soft and pink, but the accompanying mash is lumpy and the red cabbage is flavourless and dry. The sticky toffee pudding is dense and dessicated, and the tarte tatin is sneaked onto the plate with creme fraiche rather than the the advertised clotted cream.

This is gastropub grub on paper, but unfortunately doesn't hit the mark. The sumptuous interior of The Ridge is in conflict with this menu, as well as with the garish piped music and copies of Marie Claire in the central table. It is a brave but confused venture.