Cafe Gandolfi, Glasgow, 07.05.09

By all accounts Cafe Gandolfi was one of the first establishments to set foot in the Merchant City area of Glasgow, during almost three decades of refurbishment and development. The word on the street is that Gandolfi is one of the respected Glaswegian players, and on entering its woody, cavernous, dim-lit interior it feels like a distinguished grandfather of restaurants.

The philosophy is firmly Scottish- local produce, quality organic meats- but there are pepperings of ragu, strains of coriander and smatterings of Italian cheese throughout the menu. Whilst the daily specials menu is inspired, it still has stiff competition with regulars such as meatloaf; smoked haddock and tiger prawn liguine; and neeps and tatties. I couldn't ignore the starter of Stornoway white pudding with apple, crispy onions and Cumberland sauce. My university days in Edinburgh founded my love of such puddings and although the black version is also available, it would be foolish to pass up its white cousin.

Perfectly moist on-the-bone chicken breast is encased in a salt-crisp skin, and compliments the al dente (although slightly underseasoned) red cabbage accompaniment. My food envy fuse is immediately ignited by the salmon and coriander pastry parcel (which for all purposes is a Cornish pasty in design). Both my companions had to provide me with generous forkfuls- the pastry is soft and there is plentiful fish.

Dessert was skipped with unfortunate external time pressures (but by no means on account of the attentive but informal service style). For a next visit, Glasgow offers a wealth of eating experiences, but I'd find it hard not to resist Gandolfi or its sister establishment for a more leisurely affair.