I'm not really sure how I've managed to avoid Bell's Diner since relocating to Bristol 18 months ago or so. Maybe the hype that surrounds it made it subconsciously unappealing, or its quirky location in Montpelier was a turn off. Either way I've been truly missing out.
Bell's is an eclectic collection of rooms defined by white linen table cloths and French formality but it is immediately apparent that staff are enthused by the food. An amuse bouche shot-glass of asparagus puree with truffle foam awakens the palate. The exquisite two-hour poached duck egg is delicate and beautifully gelatinised, and is given a firm shove by its accompanying Iberico ham jelly and asparagus. The pink but bloodless rump of lamb is accompanied by a brooding hot pot of sweetbreads, kidneys and shoulder. Dessert does not fade- a banana souffle is ceremoniously impaled at the table before a dousing of toffee sauce. The lemon fantasy is a tour of four desserts journeying citron tart to sweet.
This place seem fresh but oozes a sense of reliability. Forget the penny-pinchers and ditch the mediocre establishments. For just a few more pounds you can have Bell's. I'll be back.
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