Wong Kei, China Town, London, 25.01.09

Wong Kei. Wonky? Well it's certainly not standing up completely straight if this visit was anything to go on. There's a certain canteen charm to it when you leave the bustle of Chinatown outside, but the stairs up to our first floor table could have been the setting for any grotty multistorey car park. That aside, it was a busy night and service was in full flow.

The cripsy duck was prompt and reassuring. There's always the pancake issue and not enough of the green bits, but extra supplies were provided. Moving on, the first crispy seaweed had its texture enhaced by a piece of twisted metal buried within it. The apologies were present but unenthusiastic and the replacement plate arrived shrapnel-free. Whilst the rest of the party chose family favourites along the lines of chicken and cashew nuts, and sweet and sour pork, I thought I'd branch out. Roast pork and oysters- bit of an intriguing combination and it felt like it could be the genuine Chinese article. Unfortunately I've seen more meat in a pork scratching and the oysters had left the sea a rather long time ago. Pushing it aside, I glanced to my friends for charitable donations. To my left, was a curious combination of chicken, a few cashews, and the contents of a tin of mixed veg (you know, small carrot cubes, a few peas and the obligatory sweetcorn). To my right, more mouthfuls of fatty battered pork with sweet and sour sauce. I ordered another beer instead.

We finished up pretty swiftly and judiciously decided to leave the dessert menu for another time. The toilets were again set in car park territory, but full marks for consistency of the theme. Our British joviality was assisted by a young waiter who decided to mock one of the party's laugh as he swaggered past the table. Not sure where the arrogance came from- there's certainly nothing redeeming here.

Chinatown can be hit or miss. Recommendations can be boring and safe, and sometimes it's the sefl-congratulation of finding an impressive unassuming place tucked away somewhere that makes the night. Wong Kei isn't tucked away. Walk on past...